Mascarpone

By Joanna Weinberg

Strictly speaking, mascarpone is a cultured cream rather than a cheese. But when something tastes this good, who cares? Its great advantage is that it lasts for three to four weeks unopened in the fridge as opposed to crème fraîche's two weeks, and fresh cream's measly one. This is much to do with its high fat content - about 75 per cent. With the texture of clotted cream and mouth-feel somewhere between freshly churned butter and crème fraîche, it's an ingredient that, once used, seems impossible to do without.

Most famously, mascarpone makes up the creamy filling for tiramisu. But it is equally good to use in savoury dishes. Its high fat content gives it excellent emulsifying qualities, and it will reduce the sharpness of a tomato-based or other acidic sauce. If your risotto lacks that desirable creamy consistency, stir through some mascarpone at the last minute. Even better, beat it first with plenty of grated Parmesan and chopped herbs. Or it can simply be spooned over a still-hot vegetable tart.

Where puddings are concerned, mascarpone can make a great replacement for crème patisserie or custard. Beat two egg yolks, with a few tablespoons of caster sugar, into 250g mascarpone. Then spread over a pastry or shortbread base before adding the fruit of your choice - summer's strawberries and raspberries or winter rhubarb, say. For a professional finish, melt and sieve a little apricot jam and brush over the top before serving.

For the sneakiest cheat's pudding of all, make a cheesecake biscuit base (250g crushed digestives, or Duchy Original orange butter biscuits are a fancy option), and mix with 120g melted butter. Press into a loose-bottomed tin and refrigerate. Now beat 200g mascarpone with 200g Greek yoghurt (the fearful could turn to a fat-free version) and add 2tbsp lemon curd. Spread over the top of your base and serve with peeled, sliced blood oranges.